Mulch Your Spring Flower Bulbs in the Fall for a Beautiful Spring Display

Flower bulbs need a good, long, winters sleep. Like some people we know, if they wake up before they are fully rested they get kind of cranky, and then they dont bloom well at all.

Actually what happens is during a mild winter, the soil stays too warm and the bulbs begin to come out of dormancy early. They start to grow, and once the tips emerge above the soil line, they are subject to freezing if the temperatures dip back down below freezing. And thats usually what happens. After the bulbs have emerged, they freeze and then dont bloom at all, or if they do its a very sad display.

Another reason this happens is because the bulbs are not planted deep enough. They may have been deep enough when you planted them, but as the soil goes through the freezing and thawing process, the bulbs can actually work their way up in the ground. One way to keep your flower bulbs sleeping longer, which will protect them from freezing, is to mulch the bed.

In the fall just apply a 3-4 layer of well composted mulch. This layer of mulch will do a couple of things. It will maintain a higher moisture content in the soil, which is good as long as the soil isnt too soggy. Well composted mulch also adds valuable organic matter to the planting bed. Organic matter makes a great natural fertilizer.

A 3-4 layer of mulch also acts as an insulator. It will keep the soil from freezing for a while, which is good because you dont want the bulbs going through a series of short cycles of freezing and thawing. Then when the temperatures drop below freezing and stay there for a while, the soil does eventually freeze. Then the mulch actually works in reverse and keeps the soil from thawing out too early. Keeping it in a frozen state is actually good because the bulbs remain dormant for a longer period of time.

When they finally do wake up it is spring time, and hopefully by the time they emerge from the ground the danger of a hard freeze is past and they will not be damaged. If you can keep them from freezing, they will flower beautifully. The extra organic matter will help to nourish the bulbs when they are done blooming, and the cycle starts all over again.

We also plant annual flowers in the same beds with our spring bulbs. By the time the danger of frost is past and its time to plant the annuals, the top of the bulbs have died back and are ready to be removed. The mulch that is added in the fall also helps to nourish the annual flowers, as well as improve the soil permanently. Any time you add well composted organic matter to your planting beds, you are bound to realize multiple benefits. The key words here are well composted. Fresh material is not good.

Mole Traps: Can you use them?

by: Andy Beard

Mole control is one of the most complicated problems that
can face a gardening enthusiast.

It is not from lack of information. Plenty of information is
available. University research and white papers, government
brochures, and plenty of expert opinions.

It is not from a lack of products either. At any time there
are 10 or more different varieties of mole trap on sale,
plus various poisons and repellants.

The experts, university professors and even the government,
when they express an opinion, even come close to a
concensus. Mole traps are probably the most effective method

of mole control, if set correctly, checked on a regular
basis etc.

Most reports however take a very simplistic view:-

A single plot of land

No regard to whether neighbouring plots are residential, farmland or wooded.
No recommendations on how to co-ordinate efforts with
neighbours.
If one neighbour has a huge infestation of moles, but
refuses to take action, can they be force to do so? If you
used fumigation in such a case, could they hold you liable
for killing their moles?

Rules apply to specific locality

There are states in the US where the use of mole traps are
restricted. There are areas of Canada where both the Eastern
Mole and the Townsend mole are a protected species. The
bordering states in the US have no restrictions, yet species
conservation is meant to be a global concern.

Lethal methods of mole control can only be used in Germany where the moles are a confirmed hazard.
The use of traps in many US States currently falls under
hunting regulations which can require a license, and
specific measures to be taken. This is often not enforced.

Making Your Garden an Outdoor Living Room

Today, when building costs make large houses prohibitive, one way to extend your house is to use your outdoor space to full advantage. And many contemporary houses make many a room look larger by visually extending it into the lawn or garden.

Tricks such as glass walls, using the same wall material inside as for a continuing wall on the terrace and using the same material for the ceiling inside as on the extended terrace eaves, help to do this.

Your living room or dining room and even your bedroom or your children's bedrooms can flow right outdoors on to "floating" decks of wood, bricked terraces or lattice-roofed loggias.

However you do it, with the aid of vine, fences, shrubbery, shade trees and flowers you can make your terrace a delightful place for entertaining, sun-bathing and relaxing.

With a barbecue another dimension is added, for with your own fireplace or barbecue any terrace, lawn or garden spot can offer the blithe enchantments of dining under sun and stars.

In planning your terrace, consider installing an electric outlet for lighting, portable radio, electric spit for your barbecue, etc.

Use vines for a lattice roof (grape vines, for instance, leaf out late when shade is wanted and drop their leaves early at the beginning of cool weather, giving delicious fruit as bonus). Choose a rapid-growing vine like grape, hyacinth or the gourd vine.

Relate your terrace to the rest of your grounds with flowers and vines grown in pots, baskets and tubs. If the wall of the house next to your terrace seems bare or the profile of your cement or asphalt paving seems too sharp in contrast against the grass, soften the line with pots of plants.

Have dwarf trees on your terrace and blossoming shrubs in the terrace-retaining walls. Create interest with changes of level; build flower beds around trees, steps and walls.

For a terrace where everybody in the family assembles, have play space for young children, a sand box which can later be filled with plants, or a little square pool for sailing small boats (this can create a sense of luxury long after the children are grown up).

You need not rely on trees alone for shade. Construct a self-bracing terrace roof in an egg-crate design, using the side of your house and wood, masonry or metal pillars. Corrugated plastic and reinforced glass is in frequent use nowadays because they are watertight, yet let the sunlight through.

Coming into more and more architectural use   particularly in hot climates is the "parasol" roof, extending from the walls of the house some 4 feet and even more to give pleasant shade to the surrounding area.

Since glare reflected on bare grounds is a source of heat, a carpet of shaded grass under the parasol roof helps to keep the house cool.

Often an outdoor living space gets twice the use if it is made more accessible. A window in a living room can be converted to a French door, making it more natural to step right out on the terrace instead of walking around the house to reach it.

A terrace that is an extension of a narrow porch a paved area adjoining the porch will make the porch that much more liveable. A flagstone path or any other path  leading to a terrace away from the house will increase the usefulness of the terrace.

Some kind of hard flooring is of prime importance, whether it is of brick, crushed rock, cement, wood block, or flagstone, for it makes it easier to move the furniture around and eliminates worries over tramped-on turf. In fact, it is a good idea to have a terrace in a spot where you are having trouble with the lawn.

Outdoor living space is successful, too, when it is sheltered away from street noises and traffic, from the neighbours, from the wind. An unused corner of the house or the garage, with the aid of fences and walls, can turn into a sun trap that will stretch out the season for outdoor living both in spring and fall.

A louvered board fence, a basket-weave fence, asbestos laid in cement to form a modern wall, or the traditional brick wall, all are pleasant backgrounds for planting and good screens against wind and other disturbing elements.

Lawn care Tips - Six Easy Steps to a Great Lawn

Lawn care Tips - Six Easy Steps to a Great Lawn

What type of lawn care works best for you depends on the time and money you decide to put into your lawn. If your lawn is your hobby, you can spend thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours of time on it.

On the other side of the fence, if what you want is a low-maintenance green expanse that you can enjoy with family and friends, you've come to the right page!

The best lawn care tip you can get is to start with a solid plan.

1. Do you need to plant grass? Do some research on the best seed for your area, where to buy it cheap, and when it's available. Depending on where you live, you'll plant either cool season or warm season grass.

Cool season grass, planted in northern areas, is usually best planted in early fall, but if you missed planting then, plant it in the spring when soil temperatures reach 50 F.

Warm season grass needs soil temps of 70F to thrive and is the choice for southern plantings. Don't make the mistake of thinking you can plant warm season grass in the upper Midwest. Warm season grasses are bred to thrive in southern climates and are not winter hardy in the north.

2. Of course, you'll keep new grass plantings moist, but once grass reaches a height of three inches, water it deeply once a week.

A healthy lawn needs about an inch of water a week. When watering, remember to consider recent rainfalls. Shallow watering techniques keep grass from sinking the deep roots that your lawn needs to compete with deep-rooted weeds.

3. Do you already have a lawn? Aerate it in the spring while it's still moist and before the spring rains are done.

Aerating your lawn in the springtime gives microbes and other small life forms a breath of fresh air after winter. Aeration also makes new paths for drainage and keeps your lawn from becoming saturated.

4. A lot is written about lawn fertilizer and the big question is why? Grass is the most efficient user of nitrogen on earth!

Feed your soil with nutrient rich compost and let your lawn get its nutrients the natural way. The more chemicals you use, the more you disturb the natural biological processes that convert organic matter into nutrients and the microbes and other small organisms that take natural care of your lawn.

5. Mow your grass high. A 2 � to 3-inch high cut makes your lawn look fuller, feel softer, and helps keep it healthy. Taller grass shades pesky weed seeds and keeps them from getting established. In addition, a taller lawn is better able to absorb sunshine and better able to retain moisture, the two main contributors to a healthy lawn.

6. Enjoy your lawn. After all, isn't that your main reason for having a yard?

Things You Should Know About Gardening

Gardens come in different varieties like the plants you find in them. There are several gardening tips that can be used for all type of gardens.

1.Mulching protects your garden topsoil from being blown away. It also provides nutrients as it decomposes and improves the appearance of your gardens. Mulching has other benefits and is one of the most recommended gardening tips by gardeners and farmers alike.

2.Healthy plants are more disease resistant. Plant are like people, a person with a strong immune system can combat diseases. A healthy plant does the same.

3. Pests can be eradicated by cleaning the plant with a watery solution of soap. Just make sure to rinse after. This gardening tip is best heeded for fruit bearing trees or edible plants.

4. Using compost fertilizers are a great way to have healthy plants. It is also a great way to save money on expensive fertilizers. Non -organic fertilizers also tend to leave chemical residues that can accumulate in garden soils and harm not only the plants but the gardeners as well. They cause toxins to go to the water supplies. Another gardening tip recommended not just by farmers and gardeners but also by environmentalists.

5. There are several plants that are only suitable for a specified climate, a certain kind of soil or can only grow with certain plants. You have to know what plant grow in the conditions you have in your area this is for you to avoid unnecessary purchases. This is a money saving gardening tip.

6.Landscaping is a good investment which can double the value of your home. This is one gardening tip that can earn you money.

7. Growing grass on bare ground is an easy way to make your home look better and appreciate in value. This is one gardening tip that promotes earning money while growing grass legally.

8. Aside from looking great in your home, trees also provide some sort of protection from direct sunlight exposure and strong winds.

9. Vines on the walls, fences and overhead structures also would offer some protection and would also look great.

10.Flowers are beautiful, but they are also expensive. Get one that is resistant to many elements. Flowers from your local community already have developed resistance to conditions present in your area.

11.For most gardens plants, their roots go only as deep as 6 inches. Putting fertilizer deeper than that would be a waste of money. Put them shallower as they seep down when the plants are being watered.

12.Earthworms are important to plants. They till and aerate the soil for the roots to breathe. Non-organic fertilizers can kill them. This gardening tip dates back to the old days of gardening.

13. Having several kinds of insects that are beneficial to your garden would be good. These insects can be encouraged to stay by having diverse plants in your garden.

14. Spot spraying weeds with household vinegar, instead of using commercial weed-killers, can eradicate them. This is another environment friendly gardening tip.

15. Avoid putting too much mulch on tree trunks, this would encourage unwanted pests to reside on them.

16. Use plant varieties that are common to your area or have been taken from an area with similar conditions.

17. Be sure to know the plants that are poisonous. If you are intent on growing them, make sure to have the necessary cure available in your household. Take note of this gardening tip, it can save your life.

18. The best time to water plants is during mornings.

19. Before planting a new plant in your garden, you must consider its height and size when it matures. This garden tip can help you save money in the future.

20. Newly transplanted plants may require special attention during its first week. This is to reduce the stress and shock it got during transplantation.

And last but not the least of the gardening tips...

21.Plants are living entities. If you want them to grow in your garden you have to treat them as such. They need to be taken care of. They are like your pets, you look out for them. In return you get that feeling of contentment watching them thrive.

A good way to take care of them is to consider that plants might have some feelings too.

How To Prevent Damping Off

Damping off is the single term used to describe
underground, soil line, or crown rots of seedlings due to
unknown causes. The term actually covers several soil borne
diseases of plants and seed borne fungi. The fungi which
cause root rot are species of Phyium, Phytophthora,
Rhizoctonia and Fusarium.

There are two types of damping off: pre-emergence and post-
emergence. In pre-emergence damping-off, seeds may rot and
seedlings may decay before they emerge. In post-emergence
damping off the seedlings emerge then may pale, curl, wilt,
and collapse from a rot at the soil line and below. The
base of the stem is generally water-soaked at first then
turns gray to brown or black then rots.

Vegetable seedlings often do not grow well under humid
conditions, particularly if the soil is cold and wet.
Damping off fungi flourish in moist, unhygienic conditions.
The disease often starts at one end of a seed tray, and
quickly spreads to the other end. A fluffy fungal growth
may also appear on the soil surface as well as on the dead
seedlings.

When preparing to plant be sure that flats, tools, plant
containers, and benches are clean. Damping off pathogens
can live in these containers. The easiest way to disinfect
them is to dip them in a bleach solution for 10 seconds.
Use 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. Or use 70 percent
rubbing alcohol.

Plant in a light, well drained fertile seedbed. Preferably
use sterile soils that have been pasteurized with heat
before planting. Maintain a soil pH at the low end of the
average scale. A soil of 6.4 pH is less susceptible to root
rot than a pH of 7.5. As plants are watered the pH
gradually increases. Test often and continue to maintain a
lower pH while the plants are still germinating. If
necessary use one tablespoon of vinegar to 1 gallon of water
to lower a rising pH level.

Plant seeds no deeper than 4 times their own thickness.
Keep the seedbed soil on the dry side after planting and
allow plenty of bright light but not direct sunlight.

Use plant containers with drainage holes, water from the
bottom only, and avoid excess watering. Do not allow pots
to stand in water as excess water cannot drain and the roots
will be starved for oxygen which will stop all growth of
seedlings. Never water late in the day.

Avoid overcrowding and overfeeding of plants. Do not
overfertilize, especially with nitrogen.

How To Plan A Garden Right

Gardening is a hobby that brings joy, entertainment, and a
better quality of life. It is a creative activity, the
result of which is a more aesthetically appealing home.

Thoughtful planning of a garden starts with the type of
garden you would like to have. Deciding on a type of garden
is essential defore choosing which design elements to
include. Will your garden be just a place to plant a bunch
of flowers, which will blossom only during the growing
season? Or would you rather have a thoughtfully-chosen herb
garden? Or maybe just a vegetable plot?

Another issue to consider is the climate in your location.
It can be surprising how little we know about the facts,
figures and statistics of the weather where we live. You may
want to consult an online map to get statistical data
regarding climate elements like rainfall per month or
average temperatures.

The next step, after having decided about the type of garden
and after investigating the local climate, is to figure out
the plants that you would like to grow in your garden. Think
of plants that are suitable for the duration of the growing
season in your location and that will survive the changes in
temperature, typical for your location.

The thoughtful planning of a garden involves one more factor
to consider - how much shade is necessary for each of the
plants. You need to make sure that there is enough light all
over the places you plan to plant your garden.

When you have finished with planning in theory, it is time
to start planning the plots in your garden. Again, think for
a good plan - one that brings joy, is easy to keep to, and
at the same time efficiently uses the available space.

Think about where to place plants that require a lot of
sunlight. The best place for such plants is away from
buildings and taller trees because these block the light at
daytime.

Deciding which plants to grow near the house, and which
should be in the open also requires some thought. If you
prefer the sunshine streaming through your windows, then you
are best not to have bulky trees or bushes near the house,
where they will block the sunlight.

If you have decided that you will be growing herbs and
vegetables, the best place for them is near the house. When
they are near the house, it is more likely that you will be
using them for cooking. Besides convenience, you should also
think about the location of vegetables as far as their needs
for sunlight are concerned. This is especially true if yours
is mainly a vegetable garden.

Last, but not least, take into account your personal
preferences, when designing a garden. If there are
particular extras you would like to have, for instance
winding pathways or gazebos, include them in the initial
design of the garden. Your outdoor garden is constrained
only by the limits of your creativity and the growing season
in your location.

How to Make Your Own Rooting Hormone

When starting a new plant from a leaf or stem cutting, the
cutting will be more likely to form roots and create a new
plant if a rooting hormone is used.

While commercial rooting hormone can be used there are
organic homemade versions that work as well.

To make rooting hormone soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a
weeping willow tree in water. A tea made from the bark of a
willow tree is also effective. When using the shoots or
bark soak them for 24 hours prior to using.

Some people have found that using honey makes an effective
rooting hormone as well.

Leaf cuttings: Any plant with leaves such as African
Violet, Geranium etc. can be propagated with leaf cuttings.
Using a sharp knife cut off a healthy leaf at the point
where it joins the stem. Insert the cut part, called a
petiole, into the rooting hormone. Place the end into a
small container of light potting soil in which you have made
a small hole with a pencil. Making a hole prior to planting
assures that the rooting hormone will not be brushed off the
cutting when you plant it. Perlite, Vermiculite, and/or
water-soaked Sphagnum moss can be added to potting soil to
make the soil light. Make sure the leaf is leaning slightly
so that the new plants will have plenty of light and not be
shaded by the leaf.

Stem cuttings: These are treated just like leaf cuttings
except you cut off a stem with several leaves instead of
just one leaf. Remove the bottom leaves, leaving a few at
the top. Proceed as with the leaf cutting.

In both instances cover the pot with a plastic bag or
inverted glass jar. This will keep moisture from
evaporating and keep the cutting from wilting. Keep in a
warm location with diffused light but out of direct
sunlight. When there is indications of growth after about 3
to 6 weeks, transplant the new emerging plant into a new pot
of potting soil. Continue to keep a humid environment for
about 2 more weeks until active growth begins.

How To Make Money With Garage Sales

Drive through almost any neighborhood in any city or town on
a weekend, and you're sure to see garage sales scattered
throughout.

These homeowners are spending their weekend time off making
money. The average profit is $600 for a one-weekend garage
sale.

It's time to get your share of the pie. Organization is the
key.

Step one: Check with the local officials to see what the
local laws and regulations are on operating garage sales in
your area.

Step two: Spend a few weekends going to garage sales in
your area. See what is selling, what people are buying, how
the items are priced, how the sellers advertise. Observe
how the sellers display their items. Take notes.

Step three: Clean house and take stock of what you have and
what it's time to get rid of. Be sure to pick out at least
one interesting and unusual item to call
attention to your sale; some large ticket item you can set
up in front of your home during your sale.

If you find older items such as dishes, a painting, an old
flower urn etc. that you feel it's time to dispose of have
it appraised. You don't want to sell something for 50 cents
only to find out later it was an antique valued at $500.00.
You can be sure there are garage sale shoppers who are on
the lookout for just this kind of treasure.

Step four: Pick a date for your sale. The best time to
have a garage sale is twice a year in May or September.
People will be out shopping for summer items in May and
winter items in September.

Never pick a holiday weekend such as Mother's Day or Labor
Day. Holiday festivities will get the attention of most
people.

The best days for your garage sale are Thursday, Friday, and
Saturday.

Step five: Advertise, advertise and advertise some more.
Place ads in the local newspaper, shopper guides, on
bulletin boards and even online. Place signs all over the
neighborhood with brightly colored letters, attached
balloons, etc.

Step six: Organize your sale. Put price stickers on your
items. Have a wide variety of clothing and jewelry and
arrange them in a rainbow of colors. Make sure jewelry and
appliances sparkle! Hang clothing on racks arranged in
sizes. Imagine that you are opening a retail store and copy
what the stores do.

If you have items that are hard to price and you think they
will not sell, put them in a penny box. And be sure to mark
the box "Penny Box" or "All items just 1 cent each".

Step seven: Timing. Consider starting at 7:00 a.m. instead
of 8:00 or 9:00. And close no later than 6:00 p.m. And
positively NEVER shut down for the noon hour! There are
people who work on weekends and will stop on their way to or
from work and shop during their lunch breaks.

As most customers will have come and gone by 1:00, noon hour
being the most active, you can start lowering prices after
1:00 p.m. On items you think will not sell at all, put them
in a box marked "Free".

And lastly, what doesn't sell take to the local Good Will or
other organization of your choice.

How to make candles

Making homemade candles can be a fun hobby, whether making them as gifts or for yourself to enjoy. Candle making usually requires some experimentation, but when you discover how to make those perfect candles, its well worth the effort.

There are a few basic supplies needed for making most candles:


wax
wicks
mold or containers
wax melter
candle making thermometer
fragrances
dyes
putty for molds

First decide on a wax you would like to start with, there are three different kinds to choose from: paraffin wax, soy wax, and beeswax. Paraffin wax is most commonly used in candles, this wax is found at most candle making stores. Soy wax is all natural, made from soybeans, and cleans up easily with soap and water. Beeswax is all natural too, and making beeswax candles is often easiest because you simply wrap a sheet of beeswax tightly around a wick then seal it with your thumb, which means no melting is required.

To begin, spread newspapers around the candle making area. First you melt your paraffin or soy wax and it must be double-boiled. Usually you place a large pot that is about half-filled with water on a burner over low-medium heat, place a melter in the water, then gradually place wax pieces into the melter. When the wax has melted, you can add coloring or fragrance as desired.

To make molded candles, cut the wick two inches taller than you want the candle to be, then thread it through the hole at the bottom of the mold, then plug the outside of the hole with putty. Place a pencil or similar item over the top of the mold and tie the top of the wick to it, centering the wick. If the mold is cardboard, plastic, or glass, heat the wax to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. If the mold is metal, then heat the wax to 190 degrees. You can use a candle or candy thermometer to measure this. When the right temperature is reached, lift the melter by the handle and slowly pour the wax into the mold. Let cool for twelve hours then refrigerate for twelve more hours, then your candle is ready to be removed.

To make votives and other small container candles, you can use pre-tabbed wicks by simply placing them in the center of the votive candle molds or containers, then pour the wax mixture over and let stand for twelve hours, refrigerating the votives.

How To Keep Your Tools Useful For Every Season

You dont want to keep your useless tools in your storage right? You will only fill up the room with broken tools, so you feel you want to throw everything out. Wow, thats really a good way to throw out money.

Try not throwing out your tools from the storage by fixing and maintains it properly. Even if it is not broken, maintaining your tools is one way to help you having long lasting equipment. What ever it is, tools are so significant for you to have and has been used since stone era.

Britannica Encyclopaedia said tools began perhaps a million years ago when man learned to walk erect. His hands were then free to grasp objects of wood and stone. He used these to kill animals for food, and they became the first tools. All tools have vast advantage. Its really amazing how those tools helping people to do their everyday life. You will be lured to own your set of tools too.

Not just keen to buy, but maintaining is also important. The better a tool works, the less you'll have to use your energy to do the work. Tools that are in good working order will last forever. Maintenance tasks are easy to do and typically for garden tools are required only once a year. If the tasks are done at end of the season, the tools are ready to use when the season starts, and they are better protected from corrosion during storage.

Before your start keeping your tools, lets check these checklists:

 After you use your tools, and you expect to use it again in a long run by keeping it in the storage, better you replace blades or sharpen tools that cut or dig, lubricate moving parts and oil materials that tend to dry out.

 When a repair is not a safe option, replace the broken parts before you keep your tools in the storage. Don't try to glue or tape a broken wooden handle.

 Before you start fixing your tools, gather all your tools to assess the damage or maintenance needs on the worktable that already cover with newspaper, so it will not be dirty from dirt and oil.

 Write down which tools need to be fixed and which one only needs to be maintained.

 You should wear heavy gloves for your work. Files rough-sharpen digging tools and to sharpen nicked or very dull cutting tools; sharpening stones are required to hone and maintain sharp edges on cutting tools.

 If a metal file doesn't have an integral handle, buy a handle for it. The tool will be much safer to use for the next work. Better you keep it diligently.

It
s really amazing how those tools helping people to do their everyday life, especially when your tools are maintained very careful.

How to Keep your Brick Patio Weed Free

Brick Patio Weed Control

In researching this article, I found one instance where a homeowner was so incensed by the weeds in her patio that she set fire to them with a blowtorch!

Luckily, several items provide better service as a weeding tool and there are several better alternatives for brick patio weed control.

Of course, the best method of brick patio weed control is proper installation of your brick patio.

Start with an under-layment of pea gravel, topped by a layer of sturdy landscape cloth and cover with it with a layer of sand.

This will give your brick patio a firm footing as well as cramp the style of any weeds in the area.

Nevertheless, if your brick patio is already installed and running rampant with weeds, here are some tips to help you succeed in to keep it weed free without a lot of agonizing work.

First, to make your brick patio weed control plan a success, implement your plan before weeds flower. This keeps weeds from going to seed and helps make a short-term plan last for a longer time.

For the following tip and other tips that involve weed dousing of one sort or another, use a piece of cardboard or scrap of Plexiglas to protect nearby plants.

One of the best ways to kill a vegetable of any kind is to cook it.

Boiling water is a natural and very inexpensive weed-wilter and works to kill most forms of annual weeds. It also kills or weakens many types of perennial weeds.

A teakettle is your weeding tool. Fill it with water and bring it to a boil. While you're waiting (because a watched pot never boils, you know!) go outside and cut the culprits down to their crowns.

When the water begins to boil, grab the kettle (using a potholder) and pour the water on the crowns of the weeds, holding the kettle high enough only to avoid splashing. Killing weeds with boiling water will also scald any biological organisms that get splashed, but more will return as soon as the soil cools.

Vinegar will kill most weeds. However, grocery store vinegar is normally a 5% solution and is too weak to do the job. Ten-percent vinegar will kill most weeds and usually is found where canning and pickling supplies are sold.

A 20% solution of vinegar kills really stubborn weeds, but is frequently more than twice as expensive as 10%. Try to control the weeds with the 10% before you make the investment in a stronger solution.

Spray the vinegar directly on the weeds, using the shield mentioned above and taking care not to inhale fumes. You may also want to wear gloves and eye protection as a further safeguard.

In my experience these measures will keep all brick patio's free from weed without a lot of back breaking work.

We love to share our gardening ideas and hear yours.

How to Grow Cooking Herbs

Grow your own cooking herbs to add fresh zest and flavor to your menus year-round!

Is It a Cooking Herb or a Spice?

The first thing to know in selecting which herbs to grow is the difference between cooking (culinary) herbs and spices. The cinnamon stick you put in your hot chocolate or apple cider is a spice while the parsley on the edge of your plate is an herb.

Cooking herbs are usually the fresh or dried leaves of plants while spices are the ground seeds, roots, fruits, flowers, and/or bark.
Herbs grow very well in temperate zones, while spices generally come from tropical areas.
Herbs add subtle flavor, whereas spices are generally more pungent and add more robust flavor.

Herbs run the gamut of about 70 cultivars, broken into categories of medicinal, ornamental, and aromatic as well as culinary or cooking herbs. To start growing cooking herbs, it's best first to select where and how you want to grow them.

Site Selection

Most cooking herbs thrive in just about any location that gives them plenty of light, good drainage and nutrition. In addition to outdoor garden spots, culinary herbs can be grown in patio containers, as indoor herb gardens, or in greenhouses using soil-less growing techniques like hydroponics or aquaponics.

Outdoor Cooking Herb Gardens

For easy access, plant your herb garden as close to your kitchen as possible. Herbs grown in full sun have denser foliage, darker color, and higher levels of the essential oils that add flavor to your recipes. Good air circulation and drainage are also important to the success of your cooking herb garden. The size of your cooking herb garden, of course, depends on the space you have available for growing. Generally, an area 20 by 4 feet accommodates a satisfactory variety of cultivars.

Many herbs overlap in category. Border your cooking herb garden with some cultivars that have ornamental or aromatic qualities as well as the culinary. However, remember that the main purpose of this garden is for use in your kitchen.

Place cooking herbs that you use frequently in less conspicuous areas so that you won't leave big holes in your garden when you harvest them for cooking!

Most culinary herbs thrive under the same growth conditions as the vegetables they enhance and as such are a natural addition to your vegetable garden. Some cooking herbs even have properties that repel common insect pests and garden diseases, which is an added benefit to your vegetables.

The best time to amend soil with nutrient rich compost is when you till your garden plot. Herbs have coarse roots that benefit from chunky organic matter, which helps excess water drain away and also helps provide good air circulation.

After planting your cooking herbs, skirting them with a two to three-inch layer of mulch helps soil retain moisture. In addition, composting and mulching helps you maintain the neutral to slightly alkaline soil that most herbs prefer

How to Create Paved Areas and Water Features

Planning your driveway and walkways so that they take up a minimum amount of room yet still provide a strong enough surface for the traffic they will bear, calls for careful thinking.

The well-designed house and grounds have the garage close to the house and near to the street. The garage situated way in back of the house is a hangover from horse-and-buggy days when the stable had to be remote from the house.

Today when the majority of home owners have cars, space can be saved by using a garage path that also serves as the house path, or feeds into a short house walk. But though the driveway can be a short one, plan for off-street parking� have your driveway at least 20 feet from the street.

Most home driveways break down under heavy service trucks and traffic because the soil under the driveway is wet. Adequate drainage for wet spots, therefore, is a necessity.

Good driveway materials are stable, and should not get washed away by storms or shovelled up with snow. If, however, the driveway must be long and does form an important feature of your landscaping, a stable material may have to be passed up in favour of one like gravel or crushed rock, which will blend better with the surroundings.

Well-designed walks with neat edgings, steps which seem to be-long where they are placed, and intriguing little paths that lead you deeper into the garden, can do much to improve your grounds.

You can scarcely lay too much emphasis on your selection of material. Concrete paths and steps, for example, while often just the right thing; can form too sharp a contrast with the surrounding turf and planting.

Informal walks of wood butts (perhaps slices of telephone poles), flagstones, or tanbark may be much more suitable. Colonial houses are traditionally set off by brick; modern houses favour wood; small houses seem to call for flags.

Garden Pools and Fountains

Water, in almost any form, enriches a garden and delights the senses. Modern houses are bringing garden pools right into the patios and terraces. Ideal is water in movement, a splashing fountain or a narrow little brook running through the grounds and between flowers over clear stones.

But even a spigot with a wooden bucket below it or a tub to fill with water and use for plunging cut flowers can bring a verdant, cool feeling into the garden.

Using the sound of running water and the evaporative qualities of a fountain or pool to bring relief from the heat is a trick we have learned from the gardens of Japan, Spain and other hot climates.

A pool in the garden highlights the good features of your setting, and it should always be placed so that its surface will be seen from several points, or at least from the most frequented spot in the garden.

The shape and materials of the coping around the pool have much to do with its appropriateness in the setting. Flagstone, brick and tile are all good depending on the degree of formality of the pool. Sometimes the best solution is no visible coping.

Fountains can be made with only a small supply of flowing water, and the same water can be used over and over if you install a small motor and pump for an electric pumping system.

A vegetable garden can also be a source of great enjoyment. It should be out of sight in a corner, or screened with shrubbery, because of the seasons when there is nothing growing in it. But it can be a decorative addition to the garden, particularly if there are grass walks and attractive flowers around it.

How to Control Poison Ivy

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Poison ivy is found throughout southern Canada and most of
the United States except Alaska and Hawaii. It is readily
found along road sides, fences, railroads, and streams.
But it can also be found in your own back yard. It is
planted there in bird droppings from the birds who eat the
berries of the plant.

So how does one get rid of the rash producing plant? Here
are some tips:

* Poison Ivy control is most effective May through July
while the plants are flowering.

* Pulling out the plant with rubber gloves is temporarily
effective but the plants roots will regrow.

* Never burn it as the smoke from the burning plant can
cause very serious respiratory and eye problems.

* Mowing the plant will eventually kill it but be sure to
use a mower with a collection bag and don't touch the
remains when emptying it. This method will take several
years to completely eradicate the plant from your yard.

* Don't use a weed-eater as that will only spread the
broken pieces of the plant everywhere. Dried poison ivy is
just as poisonous as fresh. It is said that even 100 year
old leaves can still cause a reaction.

* Suffocation with black plastic has been known to work.
This too takes time.

* An organic method consists of spraying the plant with
salt water. A ratio of one cup salt to a gallon of water
with a few drops of liquid soap added to help the mixture
adhere to the plant.

* Broadleaf herbicides work but will kill any neighboring
plants. Usually poison ivy is intertwined among plants that
you want to keep, including trees. Using selective
herbicides like Roundup can be applied to the plant stems as
they are cut off to prevent resprouting.

No matter what control method you use, be careful to avoid
exposing your skin to the plant. Wear gloves, long pants,
socks and shoes, and a long-sleeved shirt.

How to Control Deer in Your Garden

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Deer are the most difficult of all pests to deter from a
garden. They love many different plants. Flowers,
vegetables, trees and shrubs are all on their menu.

The best way to keep deer out of a garden is by using a
fence that is at least 6 feet high. If it's a small garden
that may be feasible but for large gardens or yards, the
cost is prohibitive, or possibly not practical.

So the only other choice is deterrents.

Deer don't like the smell of raw eggs, fish products, kelp,
or ammonia. Any spray made from these products can be used.
Just mix the product of choice in water and spray the plants
to be protected.

Deer don't like the smell of soap either. Some gardeners
have especially found success with Dial and Zest brands.

Blood meal scattered around the garden is another good
deterrent.

Since deer don't like capsaicin, the ingredient that makes
peppers hot, a spray made from chili peppers deters deers.

Hang fragrant fabric-softener strips, and small nylon bags
filled with human hair on trees around the garden.

Some gardeners have found success by laying chicken wire on
the ground about
six feet wide around the perimeter of the garden. The deer
don't like to walk on it because their hooves get stuck in
the loops of the wire.

Try planting time-released garlic capsules at the bases of
trees or shrubs or in the rows of plants to be protected.

There is a wide variety of plants that deer won't eat. A
list of what they like and don't like can be obtained from
your local county cooperative extension office.

How to control Ants Without Poison

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Ants are pests in the house. In the home common ants aren't
harmful but they are a nuisance.

There are many natural repellants which can be used to
discourage ants from kitchen counters, pantries, and other
areas where food lures them in.

As a first step try to prevent the ants from entering the
house.

Use less chemical fertilizers and pesticides in the lawn and
gardens. These cause an imbalance in the biological makeup
of the soil. Stressed soil and plants attract ants.

Many species of ants like to drink honeydew from aphids. If
good control of aphids in plants and gardens near houses is
exercised, ants will be less numerous. Ants seem to dislike
spearmint, tansy, and pennyroyal. Plant these near the
house to keep ants away. Sweet fern is particularly dislike
by red ants.

A simple recipe to repel ants can be made by adding to an
eight ounce bottle of mild liquid soap one ounce each of
citronella, pennyroyal, peppermint, cinnamon, rose and tea
oil. Mix together and add three tablespoons to two cups of
water. Spray where ants are entering the house. This the
formula can be used to wash down counters in the kitchen but
only use one-half tablespoon to two cups of water.

Spray trash and recycling bins if ants are a problem there.

For anthills near the house pour boiling water into the
nest.

Once ants have entered the house, other measures have to be
taken. Pennyroyal, tansy, and mint leaves scattered on
surfaces where ants are found can be used as a deterrent.
Bay leaves broken in small pieces is also helpful.

Some people have found a mixture of the following
ingredients helpful in repelling ants. One cup water, one-
fourth cup plus one tablespoon hot sauce,, one-fourth cut
liquid soap, and one teaspoon spearmint of peppermint
flavoring. Put in a spray bottle and spray where ants enter
the house.

Washing down counters with an equal solution of vinegar and
water is repulsive to ants.

Powdered cloves or red pepper sprinkled on surface where
ants are found serves as an excellent repellant. Ants are
extremely fastidious and will not return to where these hot
spices can get on their feet and antennae.

If it not too inconvenient, sticky fly paper placed in
strategic areas will capture crawling ants.

Perhaps one of the most unusual substances used that
discourages ants from pantry shelves are broken egg shells.

Lastly, clean up all food after eating for it is the crumbs
that attracts the ants.

How to Coax Fresh Vegetables From the Garden All Winter Long

Autumn typically signals the end of home grown vegetables from the garden, but with a little ingenuity you can harvest garden fresh produce well into the winter months. My Central Pennsylvania garden continues to supply fresh vegetables during the fall and winter when most gardeners in my growing region are content to dream about next summer�s bounty. Read on to discover simple tricks that will fortify your garden against the onslaught of frigid weather.

Fall often delivers brief cold spells with a few frost filled mornings, sandwiched between weeks of milder, frost-free conditions. The problem is that a single touch of frost can wipe out every tender annual growing in the garden. Fortunately, a little protection will enable frost sensitive vegetables and herbs to survive a cold snap, and reward the resourceful gardener with an opportunity to enjoy extended harvests.

Something as simple as the transparent, fleecy, floating row covers used to shield plants from harmful insects can also prevent frost damage. Row covers trap the warmth that radiates up from the earth much like the way that a cloud cover holds temperatures and prevents frost from forming. Row covers offer a few degrees of protection, keeping tender annuals safe from light frost. Use the thicker grade covers for maximum benefit.

Late summer is the ideal time to sow cold tolerant vegetables that will flourish in the fall and endure cold weather without complaint. Examples of hardy vegetables for fall gardening include: kale, spinach, collards, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, kohlrabi, turnips, cabbages, oriental greens, rutabagas, and some varieties of lettuce.

Once freezing conditions arrive, even cold hardy crops will appreciate some protection if they remain in the garden. Cardboard boxes and fruit baskets can provide shelter to individual plants, while old sheets, blankets, and heavy plastic tarps will protect entire rows or beds of plants. Apply the coverings in the evening when freezes are forecast and remove them the following morning after the sun warms the air.

Another effective solution is to use a commercial variety of cloche, or to set up a portable cold frame over the garden bed. Cloches include the heavy glass, bell shaped jars, or variously styled and shaped rigid plastic devices.

One style of cold frame consists of a tubular frame covered by a woven poly material with flaps for venting. You can also obtain sturdier cold frames made with aluminum framing and twin wall polycarbonate panels that lift up for venting. Regardless of the type of protection used to cover your plants you must remove it or provide venting during the day as temperatures rise.

Resourceful gardeners can combine a few discarded window sashes and bales of straw to create a simple makeshift cold frame. Just arrange the straw bales into a rectangular shape around a garden bed and lay the windows across the top to form an enclosed and insulated growing area. This setup will work great to keep a bed of leafy greens growing further into the winter.

Oddly enough, water can protect and insulate plants from the cold. Commercial orchards actually spray water and mist onto their trees to prevent frost damage.
In the home garden you can employ plastic gallon jugs filled with water to provide protection. Place the containers around plants, under floating row covers or tarps, and inside of your cold frames.

The water will absorb and store heat during the day and release it at night to provide warmth for your plants. You�ll get the best results by painting the jugs black so that they�ll absorb more energy from the sun during the day. Incredibly, even if the water in the container freezes, it will continue to release a significant amount of heat energy into the surrounding area.

Certain vegetables will survive on their own in the garden through bitterly cold conditions. Leeks, kale, and collards frequently withstand harsh winters without any protection. Fall planted garlic and shallots will develop strong root systems in the fall, spend the winter underground, and then spring up at the earliest signs of the arrival of spring.

Many root crops including beets, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and parsnips can be left in the garden protected with a thick layer of shredded leaves or straw. You can then continue harvesting as needed, provided that the ground doesn�t freeze and prevent digging. Complete your harvesting before spring arrives though, since quality will degrade once the roots resume growing and switch into seed production mode.

With proper planning and a little extra care you can easily grow and harvest vegetables beyond the normal spring and summer seasons. Simply implement a few of the ideas presented in this article and you�ll soon enjoy your own home grown, fresh produce much longer than usual, possibly even year-round.

How To Attract Hummingbirds

How To Attract Hummingbirds

Planting a garden full of red flowers is the best way to
attract these beautiful jeweled birds.

Plant bee balm, butterfly weed, columbine, cardinal Flower,
coral bells, cosmos, dahlias, four-o'-clock's, fuchsias,
morning glory, petunias, zinnias, trumpet vine, or
honeysuckle. A web search will reveal many more.

Be a hummingbird magnet by having as much red in your
backyard as possible. Besides flowers use gazing balls,
backyard furniture, ribbons, and other yard decorations.
Create both sun and shade areas in your hummingbird garden.
Offer an abundance of nesting materials to encourage nesting
females. Hummingbirds prefer downy like materials, spider
webs, ferns, moss and lichens for their nests.
Make certain that there is always fresh water available for
drinking as well as for bathing. Set up misters.
Hummingbirds love to take "leaf baths," rubbing against wet
leaves or just sitting on a branch having the mist fall upon
them.

Avoid pesticides. These chemicals kill the insects that
hummingbirds eat for protein and can also sicken or kill the
birds.

Add plenty of places for the birds to perch. Hummingbirds
spend around 80% of their time sitting on twigs, shrubs,
and other available resting places.

Provide red hummingbird feeders hung about thirty feet apart
throughout your yard. Never fill your feeders with anything
but a sugar-water mix of 1 part white sugar to 4 parts
boiled water. Do not use food coloring or artificial
sweeteners of any kind, and never, never use honey which can
develop a fungus which can be fatal to hummingbirds. Clean
and refill the feeders every 3 days. More often if
temperatures are above 85 degrees F.

Hang the feeders on a pole in a flower bed or on a porch or
deck near flowers hummingbirds are attracted to.

You can also tie 18 to 24 inch strips of red ribbon to the
feeder. The blowing ribbons will make it easier for the
hummingbirds to see.

Place feeders at various heights. Some hummingbird species
like to feed at heights of 12 to 15 feet, while others feed
on low growing flowers and prefer feeders placed closer to
the ground.

Avoid hanging feeders in direct sunlight, which will cause
nectar to spoil more quickly.

Once a week the feeder must be washed with vinegar and water
or a 10% chlorine solution and scrubbed clean.

Create a separate feeder for Bees and wasps. Fill it with a
mixture of 3:1 or even a 2:1 ratio of water to sugar. The
insects have a very strong preference for rich, high-sugar
mixtures and will quickly decide to use the feeder with the
higher sugar content.

To repel ants, apply vinegar or powdered cloves to ant
trails. Put adhesive tape applied sticky-side-out to the
hanging wire. Experts advise that petroleum jelly not be
used because the greasy substance gets onto the birds and
make it hard for the birds to clean their feathers properly.
Use ant traps instead.

How A Simple Indiana Farm Boy With NO Green Thumb Learned How To Create His Own Beautiful Garden In Less Than 7 days� Transformed From An Indiana Far

How A Simple Indiana Farm Boy With NO Green Thumb Learned How To Create His Own Beautiful Garden In Less Than 7 days�

Transformed From An Indiana Farm Boy With NO Green Thumbs Into A Knowledgeable �Backyard Gardener� In Less Than 7 Days

Hi there! Are you a gardening disaster, unable to keep even the most vicious of WEEDS growing? Do you have two �left� thumbs�yearning to become two �green� thumbs with regards to YOUR OWN successful backyard garden? Yes? Good, because that�s what I want to share with you. . . how I knew NOTHING about the basics of lawn maintenance and gardening, and transformed myself into a knowledgeable �backyard gardener� that has begun the process of cultivating my own little �patch of Heaven� to enjoy with my wife and kids.

How about you?

Are you looking to learn the basics? Want to revamp your existing, lifeless and limp garden into a vibrant and flourishing haven? What about that dream of always having your very own vegetable garden? Are you thinking of quitting to soon, when it comes to learning how to cultivate your own �homemade� fruits that you loving would be eager to share with friends and neighbors?

The starting point is to determine the finish line for you.

In the words of Stephen Covey--�Begin with the end in mind!� It�s okay to give yourself permission to dream a little bit. When�s the last time you walked around the family �homestead�, whether that�s a real acre or more of raw land or maybe just a small patch of dirt off the apartment patio?

I have learned the basics on a variety of garden topics and have started to turn my knowledge into action with my own backyard!

Let�s just be upfront that NO ONE can become a master gardener without years of experience and increasing their knowledge base. BUT, as is my case, I can guarantee that YOU can raise yourself to a �backyard gardener� standard by absorbing the experience and knowledge of other successful gardeners!

I am doing it�you can too!

Let me summarize some of what I have been able to learn and apply in my own life by giving a little demonstration of my own �before and after� knowledge:

THE BEFORE PICTURE:

Grass & Lawn care�Grass is what the �yard� is made up of. I know there are a couple of different kinds, only one I can think off of the top of my head is �crab grass�. Also know how to use a lawn mower and a �weed eater� to trim along the driveway and sidewalks.

Flowers�Bought in a pot or planter of some sort from the nearest Home Depot or Lowe�s store. Require watering; but degree of shade and life cycle of a certain flower . . . what�s that? ;-)

Vegetables�WHEN we eat them with dinner, they come straight from the market (usually in a can or a frozen back, right?). Of course, being from Indiana, I was raised on corn, green beans, peas, etc. Don�t give me any of that �foo-foo California vegetables� and stuff�like asparagus and such that my wife, native Southern California girl that she is, just LOVES! :-) And growing them? Fo�get �bout it!
Fruits�Peaches, oranges and apples are an easy to think of since the fruit is right there hanging off the tree for the taking, BUT starting from scratch, who has the time and patience to MAINTAIN these bad boys?

The Seasons�Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter, right? But what about �zones� for differences in climate and environment across the U.S.? I have no idea EXCEPT that palm trees seem to do really well in Southern California! ;-)

Gardening Tools�A spade? That�s either a little hand shovel or it�s a type of symbol when playing cards. . . as mentioned above, my �tool� knowledge consisted of the lawn mower, a �weed eater� and a pair of gloves. Not anymore!

THE AFTER PICTURE:

Grass & Lawn care�Lawns tend to be one of the most labor intensive and repetitive jobs in your landscaping endeavors. By the way, most lawns are a mixture of grass types, and allows for the �ol �survival� of the fittest to take place. Reducing your lawn area by using different types of ground cover or flower beds will provide some enhanced beauty and lessen the overall work load! Ground cover is foliage that applies to many types of plants. Though many different kinds for different uses, they all tend to spread horizontally very rapidly often by vining or creeping plants.

Flowers�There are several types of flowers to plan into your �patch� but one of the �regular favorites� is annuals because they bloom so fully, and the amazing color. The essence of an annual is that it germinates from a seed, growing into a mature plant that flowers, then sets its seed and finally dies. All of this happens in a single growing season. I also know now that �deadheading� is when you remove the fading flowers so that you prevent the seed formation and the bulbs will keep flowering!

Vegetables�When planning a vegetable garden, like my wife and I are currently doing, we have learned to focus on two things: 1.) creating a rich, abundant soil and 2.) spacing plants in beds instead of rows. Growing plants together will allow them to shade the ground, reducing evaporation from the soil and discouraging weeds. Also keep in mind that you don�t want to have to recruit an �army of workers� come harvest time! Planning and organizing your goals with regards to vegetables will help create a fun and enticing experience with less �back breaking� chores to upkeep!

Fruits�I have learned what one of the MOST FRIENDLY types of fruits a weekend gardener, like us, can grow is . . . Do you know what it is? Its blueberries! Why? Because they require very little pruning and that pruning needs very little skill to accomplish. Just my cup of tea�low maintenance and a hearty enough fruit to survive my inexperience and low skill level!

The Seasons�Originally I only thought of �gardening� when it came to Springtime and all the new life to enjoy�the flowers blooming, the bees working their way from one to the next, sunshine and fresh air! Not the case! Little did I know or even think about was the fact that you can do some �good work� all year long that will enable your garden to flourish and expand even more so during the �blossom� time. Also depending on which type of �zone� your in will help determine how much of a weekend gardening game plan you will want to plan, work and enjoy! Just as an FYI, check out the National Arboretum site for information about your temperate zone: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

Gardening Tools�A spade, the traditional English digging tool, has a flat, rectangular blade, attached at an angle to a short handle. They are useful for digging up the ground with your weight behind them. Mattocks are a digging tool that looks like a thick axe head and can be used to cut roots and for difficult soil types like rocky, hard-baked clay. A bulb planter cuts out a circle of earth as you jam it into the soil. You then insert the bulb and knock the soil back in to cover.

See, it�s just a matter of learning the basics! Again, if I can do it�then so can you! And these are just the starting tools.

See? What did I tell ya? I�ve gone from a �know-nothing� farm boy and changed myself into a somewhat knowledgeable �weekend gardener� in hardly anytime at all.

Of course, this is just the beginning. I am just getting started with the planning and planting! BUT, the great thing is that this has now given my wife and my boys something to have the whole family involved with! What can we come up with as a family to grow together?!? It�s very exciting and awesome to now be able to spend some great time together outside and enjoy God�s creation by being part of the �growing� cycle.

I hope you find enjoyment and happiness in developing your own �weekend gardening� skills and knowledge. Just get started! That�s what I did, and you can too!

Growing and Caring for Rhododendrons and Azaleas

GROWING AND CARING FOR RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS
Azaleas can be either evergreen or deciduous. Deciduous Azaleas are known as Mollis or Exbury Azaleas. They bloom in the early spring with vivid orange and yellow colors. They can be grown from seed if the seeds are collected in the fall and sown on top of moist peat at about 70 degrees F.

Evergreen Azaleas are known as broad leaf evergreens because they do not have needles. They bloom later in the spring, and are usually propagated in the fall over bottom heat discussed in detail at http://www.freeplants.com Rhododendrons are also broad leaf evergreens and are also propagated over bottom heat in early winter.

The best time to prune Rhododendrons and Azaleas is in the spring right after they bloom. These plants start setting next years flower buds over the summer, and late pruning will cost you some blooms next year, so get them pruned as soon as they finish blooming. Its also a good idea to pick off the spent blooms so the plants dont expel a lot of energy making seeds, unless of course youd like to grow them from seed. But keep in mind that they dont come true from seed.

Seeds from a red Rhododendron are likely to flower pale lavender. Cuttings ensure a duplicate of the parent plant. How do you prune Rhododendrons and what does pinching a Rhododendron mean? These are frequently asked questions.

Pinching is a low impact form of pruning that is very effective for creating nice, tight full plants when you are growing small plants from seeds or cuttings. Typically a Rhododendron forms a single new bud at the tip of each branch. This new bud will develop into another new branch, another bud will form and the process will continue. If left alone this will produce a very lanky plant with a lot of space between the branches, forming a very unattractive plant.

So if you are starting with a plant that is nothing more than a rooted cutting all you have to do is pinch off this new growth bud as soon as it is about 3/8 long. Just grab it between your fingers and snap it completely off. When you do this the plant usually responds by replacing that single bud with two, three, or even four new buds in a cluster around the bud that you pinched off. Each one of these buds will develop into branches and eventually a single bud will appear at the tip of each of these branches, and of course you should come along and pinch each one of those off, forcing the plant to produce multiple buds at the end of each of these branches.

The more often you pinch off these single buds, the more branches the plant will form, making a nice, tight, full plant. This is especially helpful with young plants such as rooted cuttings or young seedlings.

But what about larger plants, how do I prune them? I prune mine with hedge shears!!! I just have at it and trim them like I would a Taxus or a Juniper, and guess what? The result is a very tight compact plant loaded with beautiful flowers. My Rhododendrons are so tightly branched that you cannot see through them, and that is the result of vigorous pruning with hedge shears. Sure you can use hand shears, and youll have a nicer plant because of it, but I just use the hedge shears because thats the tool that I happen to have in my hand as I am going by.

Keeping Rhododendrons and Azaleas healthy and happy is as simple as understanding what they like. First of all, they like to grow in a climate that suits their tastes. Many varieties of both dont like it in the north, and to prove the point they will up and die as soon as extreme cold weather hits. Buy plants that are known to be hardy in your area.

Here in zone 5 (northern Ohio) the following Azaleas seem to do well: Hino Crimson (red), Stewartstonia (red), Herbert (lavender), Cascade (white), Delaware Valley (white), and Rosebud (pink). Hardy Rhododendrons include Roseum Elegans (pinkish lavender), English Roseum (pinkish lavender), Nova Zembla (red), Lees Dark Purple, Chinoides (white), and Cunninghams (white).

How should you fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas? These broadleaf evergreens are laid back and like to take it slow and easy. Do not fertilize them with quick release nitrogen fertilizers, it could kill them. Instead give them an organic snack, like Millorganite or well rotted cow manure or compost. Millorganite is an organic fertilizer made of granulated sewage sludge.

No, it doesnt smell any worse than other fertilizers, and plants like it because it is plant and soil friendly. It wont burn the plants, and it actually reactivates the micro-organisms in the soil. Thats a good thing. Most full service garden centers carry Millorganite.

A long time ago somebody let the word out that Rhododendrons are acid loving plants, and people are always asking me if I think their struggling Rhododendron needs more acid. The answer is no. Your struggling Rhododendron probably needs a great big gulp of oxygen around its root system.

Rhododendrons do not like wet feet. They dont even like high humidity let alone wet soil around their roots. They like to be high and dry, and like an unobstructed flow of oxygen to their roots. You can accomplish this by planting them in a bed raised at least 10 with good rich topsoil. They will be smiling from branch to branch.

A few years back my friend Larry and I had several hundred small Rhododendrons that we were going to grow on to larger plants. We planted most of them in Larrys backyard which is fairly good soil, but a little sticky. We didnt have room for all of them so we planted the last 105 down the road from my house in a field we were renting. (Never heard of anybody renting a field? You should get out more.)

This location had absolutely no water for irrigating and the soil was very dry and rocky. Other plants at that location often struggled during the dog days of summer due to the lack of water, but those Rhododendrons were as happy as pigs in mud. They outgrew the ones at Larrys house by twice the rate and we sold them years earlier than the others.

My point? Rhododendrons dont like wet feet. They do well in the shade, but contrary to popular belief they do even better in full sunlight.

Greenhouse Gardening as a Hobby by: Brigitte Smith For people who would like to do more gardening but live in a short growing season area, a hobby gr

Greenhouse Gardening as a Hobby

For people who would like to do more gardening but live in a short growing season area, a hobby greenhouse is the answer. A hobby greenhouse is not large enough to produce vegetables or flowers on a commercial basis. It will, however, give you a place for a tomato plant or two and some fresh greens even if you live in the northern regions.

Greenhouse enthusiasts even have their own association, called the Hobby Greenhouse Association, which publishes a quarterly magazine. The organization also sponsers events and helps individuals connect to get help with the aspect of gardening that they are interested in, whether it's growing cacti or saving seeds.

If you are in the market for a hobby greenhouse, there are several types on the market. The smallest type is not large enough to walk into and must be accessed from the outside. It resembles an old-fashioned phone booth made all of glass and outfitted with shelves. This type is designed to fit as many plants as possible in as small a place as possible. The shelves are made of glass to allow as much light as possible to reach plants on the lower shelves. Another inexpensive version of this sort of hobby greenhouse is shelving covered with a zippered tent of clear plastic. This sort of arrangement is great for the small-scale hobby gardener wanting a place to keep her flowers or houseplant starts.

There are a variety of designs of hobby greenhouse that are large enough to walk into but made entirely of clear glass or plastic. They are often about the same size as a small storage building. Some independent builders have started making these to sell locally. Among national brands, one of the nicest is called the "Solar Prism." It is called this because of it's unique construction. This hobby greenhouse is made of a single piece of durable clear plastic which is designed to work like tiny prisms side by side. They trap the rays of the sun and shoot them back into the greenhouse at all angles. For this reason, these little greenhouses are said to glow when the weather is cloudy.

Better hobby greenhouses are equipped with automatic sensors that open vents which allow ventilation and keep the interior temperatures from getting too high. These are a great labor saver, but can get expensive. Another benefit sometimes found in nicer greenhouses is a built in irrigation or misting system. Members of the Hobby Greenhouse Association, or HGA, have invented many interesting designs of greenhouses.

If gardening is your hobby, greenhouse growing will interest you. With a greenhouse, you can have the earliest tomatoes and salad greens all year. You can also start seedlings for the main garden early in the spring when outdoor temperatures would kill them. A hobby greenhouse can be a good investment.

Greenhouse Calamities � Thoughts from a Novice Gardener Greenhouses are a great addition to anyone�s garden. They come in all different sizes and you

Greenhouse Calamities � Thoughts from a Novice Gardener

Greenhouses are a great addition to anyone�s garden. They come in all different sizes and you can nestle them right where you want them and with smaller versions of greenhouses you can move them quite easily. That said, as great as they look and of course smell, there should be some type of manual to buy when you are first setting up shop in there. There are many things no one bothers to tell you and if you don�t know, you don�t ask. Here are five things I learned by plodding along on my own:

1. Never assume that your seeds are not growing and then buy plants instead. I started growing tomato seeds, in the proper seed tray, and within a month nothing had happened. However, I used pretty expensive potting soil and didn�t want to waste it so I dumped it on the floor of the greenhouse and turned it in. Then, I planted 6 tomato plants into the ground and had homemade salsa recipes salivating in my head. A month later I had well over 30 tomato plants tumbling over each other. The worst part was that I didn�t label the plants and wasn�t sure which ones to thin out. I thinned and ended up with the orange pixie variety mostly and they were about the size of a mutant cherry tomato.

2. Never assume that just because your garden is now �indoors� that you won�t get an insect infestation. If you are afraid of insects, greenhouse gardening is not much better than being out in nature. After you plant your garden, whether in grow bags, on tables or directly in the ground, look up. There he is�Sammy the Slug peering down on you with a slight smirk on his face. If you are allergic to bee stings, every year at least one gets in your greenhouse and seems to twoddle around in there for what seems like an eternity.

3. Never think you are a pack mule and can water your plants enough by using a gardening can or bucket. You can�t! With the heat and the sun shining through the glass the plants need more water than the outside plants. You need a mister, some type of irrigation system, ideally, and at bare minimum a hose. This means you�ll require a water source. Think about it when you are putting the greenhouse in place. If you�re water source is close to the house you must put the greenhouse within reach. Or, you can be like me� carry about 20 buckets of water out each night and only water � of the plants before you give up. (That said, the cursing involved in the greenhouse creates more carbon dioxide and makes plants grow better).

4. Always read or know the size to which your plants grow. Picture this�novice to gardening and new, proud-owner of a large greenhouse. �Oooh, what can I grow,� immediately pops into ones head. She plants dill, (accidentally) 30 tomato plants, eggplant and zucchini among other things. Everyday the novice goes out to water her plants and gets very excited. Until slowly, the greenery is a foot tall, then 2 feet tall then, well, then these plants are insanely out of control. Have you ever seen the size of a zucchini plant�s leaves�they are twice the size as your head! Zucchini sucks the life out of the plants planted underneath it and surrounding it. So, as for the garlic cloves planted�she was forced to make salsa sans garlic. On another note, the dill she planted grew to be at least 15 feet tall. A word to the wise, find out how big the stuff gets and plan accordingly.

5. Never buy a greenhouse if you have no one to look after it while you are on your holidays. Greenhouse plants require a lot of work because generally the soil dry-out quicker. Therefore you must water everyday at least once. Irrigation systems can help with this, but it is still advisable to have someone check it regularly to ensure it works. I went on holidays for 2 weeks and yes I had a friend looking after the glassy greatness, but the following things happened:

� She left the door open one night and some strange animal went on a frenzy hacking up all of the plants, probably eating a couple too.
� She watered, but not enough water was used. Therefore, I lost a lot of plants including my favorite.
� Leaving the door open also helped some of my plants get infested and it also created havoc with the internal temperatures.
� Some of the tomato plants needed to be pinched out and after 2 weeks I had inferior, deformed tomatoes.
� Cats. Cat pee in a damp, warm environment smells well, like cat pee.

There are many other kafuffles and calamities associated with this divine garden structure. There are many, many good things too. It is advisable to ask your friends, garden centers and online resources for advice before installing a greenhouse and planting plants inside. Now, that I have had my greenhouse for five years, I have trial and errored myself to plant-death and have a general idea about what is correct. After all, gardening is 90% trial and error and 10% knowledge.

Greenhouse Buying Guide - Basics Of Choosing A Greenhouse When choosing a new greenhouse for your garden there are several things to bear in mind if

Greenhouse Buying Guide - Basics Of Choosing A Greenhouse

When choosing a new greenhouse for your garden there are several things to bear in mind if you are going to get the most from your choice. A wrong decision can prove costly in the long run so be sure you know exactly what you need before you buy. Here are some of the most important things to consider:

What Do You Need Your Greenhouse For?

If you are looking to grow flowers or vegetables all year round then a tightly sealed, insulated greenhouse with good light transmition, ventilation and heating will be most desirable. However, if your greenhouse will only be used for germinating seedlings or wintering less hardy plants through light winters then a simple plastic frame with a polythene covering will no doubt suffice.

Free Standing or Attached?

Depending on your requirements there can be major benefits of either of these types of structures. An attached greenhouse can be a simple lean-to style greenhouse attached to the side of your house or a more expensive sunroom style construct in fitting with the rest of your building. The main advantage of either is in terms of maintenance and running costs as an attached greenhouse will benefit from being very simple to adapt to your existing lighting, heating and water sources. The major disadvantage here however is that being attached to your home means the greenhouse will have less direct exposure to the sun which may limit the types of plants you can grow effectively and positioning to minimise this is all important. A permit may also be required as this will be seen as a building extension to your home.

A free standing greenhouse on the other hand, offers many gardeners a much welcomed retreat away from the home, somewhere to escape the madness as it were. They are typically more expensive, requiring additional heating during the winter months and cooling during the hottest periods and you will also need to plan how to get electricity and a water to your new building. Your greenhouse will however have maximum exposure to sunlight.


What Size Greenhouse Do You Need?

Before you can begin thinking about anything else you need to know what size greenhouse you require. As a rule of thumb, whatever size you think you need right now is going to be too small for you a year later. Buy bigger than you need or you'll end up looking at a costly extension or a new greenhouse before long.

However, that doesn't mean you need to go overboard. If space is an issue then a lean-to greenhouse which attaches to the side of your house or other building might be the perfect solution. Equally, a mini greenhouse or a simple cold frame might cover your needs. Whichever size you choose, be sure to check out whether you need planning permission from your local authority before you put anything anywhere or you could be told to remove it later.

Which Frame Should You Use?

Wooden, Metal or PVC? Experienced hobby greenhouse owners will tell you all about the benefits of a wooden frame. If you are building your own greenhouse then wood is also the easiest to work with. Wood is also a strong frame suitable for any covering you choose and if properly maintained will last a long time. The side benefit of wood comes about when you want to drive hooks in here and there to hang tools on or otherwise affix things to the frame. This is a simple hammer job with a wooden frame but a pain with an aluminium or galvanised steel frame. Wood does however need regular maintenance to protect against the humidity of the greenhouse environment and insects.

Aluminium, galvanised steel or other metal frame requires virtually no maintenance and is also strong enough to take any covering you choose. Metal frames do conduct heat and cold however and are therefore more difficult to heat and cool. Plastic frames can only be used with lightweight plastic sheet coverings and are usually only found in small structures likes portable and mini greenhouses.

Which Greenhouse Covering?

The four basic choices of covering you will find for a home greenhouse are the traditional glass panes, polycarbonate, fibreglass or polythene plastic sheeting. There really is no 'perfect' covering or construction material for a greenhouse, and what you choose will ultimately be as much reliant upon your budget as it is upon your requirements.

Plastic sheeting is cheap and the choice of commercial growers although probably not suited to the home user as it is less than attractive to look at, tears easily and typically needs replacing within 1 to 5 years.

For the hobbyist, the choice is most likely to be between a glass, fibreglass or polycarbonate cover. Glass is the traditional choice of greenhouse covering for hobbyists and of the three, allows the most unfiltered light to penetrate through and is the most attractive if your greenhouse is going to be a feature of your garden. It does however require a strong, sturdy frame and solid foundation and if your greenhouse is going to be placed near trees, around kids playing ball or in a particularly windy area or if you just happen to be a particularly clumsy gardener, can prove to be an expensive option. A glass greenhouse can also prove difficult to keep heated in the colder months and tough to keep cool in the summer months as glass is such a good conductor, heat and cold just pass through.

The major alternative to glass is polycarbonate. Polycarbonate sheets are lighter than glass and far less prone to breakage. Sunlight penetration through polycarbonate is less than achieved with a plain glass cover however, but as light diffuses through the sheets, plants are less likely to burn under strong sunlight. Single polycarbonate is as attractive as glass but the real value in polycarbonate comes from the double or triple thickness sheets which have an in-built air space between each sheet and can save a lot of money on heating costs.

Fiberglass is a lightweight solution which allows roughly the same amount of light to pass through as glass but is less aesthetically pleasing and is prone to staining over time.

Heating, Lighting & Ventilation

Depending on what you want your greenhouse for, you should consider the associated heating, lighting and ventilation requirements. For many, the requirements of their greenhouse is driven as much by their pocketbook as it is by any other requirements. The initial outlay is easy to see but hidden costs such as heating, lighting and cooling requirements are often overlooked. By chosing the right greenhouse in the first place you can often cut down on such costs - remember - glass and metal are conductors and are therefore harder to heat during the winter months which can prove costly if you are prone to long, cold periods. A lean-to greenhouse attached to the side of a building can, with a little bit of forethought, make use of that building's heating and lighting sources potentially saving money on both initial set-up and running costs.

Give the Gardening Gift This Season (ARA) - Trying to think of the perfect holiday gift for that special someone on your list? Gardening and lawn car

Give the Gardening Gift This Season

(ARA) - Trying to think of the perfect holiday gift for that special someone on your list? Gardening and lawn care accessories make great gift ideas for the holidays, and in the spirit of the season, here are 12 gardening gift ideas to get you started:

1. Spruce up your loved one�s garden with some metal plant markers/identification tags.

2. How about a tasteful vase so your gardeners can bring the fruits of their labors indoors?

3. Decorate the lawn of someone on your list with a beautiful piece of yard art.

4. How about a spring tune-up kit? John Deere offers a maintenance kit that includes two quarts of oil, an oil filter, a new spark plug and a new air filter. If you don�t know what to get, just tell a dealer the model number of your mower or tractor and let them assemble the package.

5. Replace some of those �old favorite� tools that have been around for decades. Maybe a new garden trowel to replace the one with the bent handle. Or how about a pair of sharp pruning shears, or even a new mower blade? (They�ll never guess what that is sitting under the tree).

6. Bring someone�s garden inside this winter with some indoor bulbs.

7. Upgrade with a power tool -- a garden tiller, backpack blower or even a new string trimmer. Hand tools and power equipment improve every year, so for gardeners there�s always something new under the sun.

8. Commemorate a special occasion by purchasing a new tree or shrub that a family could plant and grow together.

9. Surprise your well-equipped gardener with a useful attachment for his/her lawn tractor -- an aerator, dethatcher to remove dead grass, or a utility cart that�s perfect for hauling compost and fertilizer.

10. How about something a little out of the ordinary? Consider a sturdy plastic gasoline can that won�t rust or build up a charge of static electricity.

11. If your lawn care enthusiast truly does have everything, stuff a gift certificate to a local gardening or home improvement store in their stocking.

12. Or give your loved one the ultimate gift -- a new riding lawn tractor! Visit your local dealership or home improvement store for the latest models.

And if none of these ideas is truly a perfect match, visit your local John Deere dealer or home improvement shop -- they will have plenty of ideas to help you find gifts for everyone on your list.